Albania, Europe’s last secret

The first time I traveled to Albania was in 2020, right in the middle of the coronavirus period, when traveling was anything but obvious. Yet that trip turned out to be one of the most authentic and surprising journeys I’ve ever taken in Europe. Since then, I’ve gone back every year… and each time it feels as if I’m discovering the country for the very first time.

My first stop was Shkodër, about two hours from Tirana airport. When I arrived at the hotel, we were immediately warned: a wedding was taking place by the pool that evening and the party might last until the early hours of the morning. Would that bother us? Quite the opposite… we were instantly invited to join. That night I barely saw my hotel room. The very first day was already unforgettable.

And the food… it deserves its own mention. Everything tastes incredibly fresh. Slow-cooked stews, vegetables straight from the garden, and bread that comes warm out of the oven. Stopping by a small bakery for a burek? Simple, but unbelievably delicious. In Albania, every meal feels like a small celebration.

One of the highlights of that first trip was a night by the Shala River. This remote canyon area can only be reached by ferry or small boat. During the day it’s idyllic, but once evening falls, a magical silence settles over the place. The emerald-blue water, the white stones sparkling in the sun, and the wild mountains surrounding you make it feel like a hidden paradise. The water is icy cold, but perfect for cooling down on a hot summer day. I explored the river by kayak, occasionally stopping at small “Hawaii-style” bars for a cocktail. What a place.

From Berat I continued to the Osum Canyon. In summer, the best way to explore this spectacular gorge is through river trekking. Wearing a wetsuit and ready for the cold water, I covered about five kilometres through the canyon—wading, swimming, floating, and hiking between the cliffs. From time to time the guides deliberately push you slightly out of your comfort zone, which only makes the adventure more exciting.

Later I also returned to go rafting there, and honestly, it’s something that shouldn’t be missed on a trip through Albania.

Ook de Vjosa-rivier wilde ik absoluut zien. Dit is één van de laatste echt wilde rivieren van Europa. Raften hier is een fantastische manier om de kracht van de rivier te voelen. De omgeving is spectaculair, zeker rond Përmet, waar je natuurlijke warmwaterbronnen vindt. Die dag eindigde ik badend in warm bronwater, met een uitzicht op de bergen terwijl de zon langzaam achter de horizon zakte. Geen café, geen restaurant, geen kleedhokjes. Alleen jij en de natuur. Misschien is dat precies wat deze plek zo bijzonder maakt.