Family trip through Costa Rica
Nature, adventure and pura vida

Reading time: 6 min

Family trip through Costa Rica: nature, adventure and pura vida

Costa Rica had been on my bucket list for a very long time. When I started my Master’s in Ecotourism in Lima, Peru, 22 years ago, Costa Rica was already seen as the true pioneer of sustainable travel. Beyond ecotourism, a few songs by Debi Nova, and the fact that Costa Rica has no army, my knowledge of the country did not go much further.

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The ideal travel season usually runs from December to May, but August and September are a pleasant exception, with a short break in the rainy season. We had fantastic weather, and the rain mostly came in the late afternoon or evening, making it easy to plan excursions in the morning. Very often, it started raining just when we were driving to the next destination. The showers are short and intense, certainly not all day long.

After a three-night stopover in Montreal, Canada, we landed late in the capital city of San José. The next morning at breakfast, we immediately realised how centrally located our hotel was: we had a beautiful view over Plaza de la Cultura and the National Theatre.

The road to Tortuguero cuts straight through Braulio Carrillo National Park. It is one of the busiest roads in Costa Rica, full of trucks and heavy traffic. After seeing several accidents along the way, we were honestly quite happy not to be driving ourselves. Having a guide quickly proved its value, as we received plenty of fascinating background information about the country.

Tortuguero gave me real Amazon vibes: you can only get there by boat, and all visits are done by water as well. We stayed there for two nights in a lovely lodge. Do not expect luxury here, but rather pure nature. We spotted many birds and explored the canals by speedboat. You can also do this by kayak, but then you cannot go as far or as deep into the jungle. What makes Tortuguero so special is that the river and the sea are separated only by a narrow strip of rainforest of about one hundred metres.

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In the evening, we went to the beach to watch a large sea turtle laying her eggs. It is incredible to see her place hundreds of shiny white eggs, like little golf balls, into the nest she dug herself, carefully cover them, and then slowly return to the sea. Taking photos is forbidden. It was nighttime, and my youngest son, who is ten and still dealing with jet lag, simply fell asleep on the Caribbean beach. We also played football with the locals, and did you know that domino is almost the national sport of Costa Rica?

After our two nights in Tortuguero, our rental car was waiting for us, and the rest of the journey turned out to be surprisingly easy thanks to calm and well-maintained roads. Travelling by rental car gave us the freedom to go wherever we wanted. Distances are relatively short, and our longest drive, including stops, took around seven hours. For those who prefer not to drive, we also offer our “Costa Rica Conectando” with a convenient shuttle system.

Our rental car was ready upon our return from Tortuguero. Children under 1.45 metres or younger than 12 years old are required to have a child seat, and of course we arrange this for our travellers. Unlimited Wi-Fi is also always included when you book your rental car together with your accommodation.

We then continued towards Cahuita, staying along the Caribbean coast. We explored Cahuita National Park and started with a boat trip for snorkelling, although unfortunately the water was a little cloudy. We did see some coral, but coral bleaching has also had a strong impact here. Costa Rica is not Belize or Honduras, where I had already been diving before. Snorkelling and diving are possible, but the better spots are around Caño Island or in Northern Guanacaste, near Bat Islands and Catalina Islands. In reality, Costa Rica is not really a classic diving destination.

In August, water sandals are definitely useful because the trails can be very wet, and sometimes rivers simply cut across the path. The children loved visiting the Jaguar Rescue Center, even though there were no jaguars, but plenty of sloths and other rescued animals. Taking selfies with animals is forbidden. Costa Rica is truly a model for responsible travel: you stay on the paths in national parks, hotels use biodegradable products, and animals are never treated as tourist attractions.

Costa Rica is perfect for both young and old, and with two active children aged 10 and 13, rafting simply had to be part of the trip. We had our best rafting experience ever near Sarapiquí. The river was wild enough for adventure, but the guidance and safety were excellent.

One of the great advantages of travelling with Connections is our concierge service on site, which arranges excursions for you. Booking everything in advance is often difficult because you never know what the weather will be like. Once in Costa Rica, you can decide what you feel like doing. One or two days in advance, you are simply asked which activities you would like, and everything gets arranged for you. No wasted time searching or comparing, and only reliable partners.

After rafting, we continued to La Fortuna, the village at the foot of the Arenal Volcano. We hiked through the national park and also visited Mistico, a beautiful private nature reserve with stunning views of Arenal. We also joined a chocolate and coffee tour at Don Juan. The children absolutely loved making their own chocolate. Costa Rica is also a true coffee country, so finding excellent coffee is never a problem.

Our next stop was Rincón de la Vieja National Park, which for me was the most beautiful park of the entire trip. At times, it felt like walking through a fairytale: enormous trees, steam rising from the ground due to geothermal activity, and bubbling mud pools appearing along the way. We also went horseback riding, ziplining, and tubing. We jumped into waterfalls and ended the day relaxing in the Rio Negro Hot Springs.

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Costa Rica is an incredibly accessible country, especially compared to Peru, where altitude and archaeological sites often require more physical effort. Here, the national parks are literally “a walk in the park”: safe, well-maintained, and easy to explore. For me, it is the perfect introduction to Latin America: safe, compact, easy to drive around, but also perfect with private transfers or shuttle services. Domestic flights are possible too, but they are relatively expensive, weather-dependent, and luggage is limited.

Our trip then continued south via the Nicoya Peninsula, one of the world’s five Blue Zones, to Santa Teresa, a small surf town on the Pacific coast. The ocean here is colder, rougher, and ideal for surfing and whale watching.

For me, this was the absolute highlight of the trip. After several failed attempts in Canada and Peru, we finally witnessed a humpback whale mother and her calf playing around our boat: slapping fins, jumping, lifting the tail… I literally had tears in my eyes. Not ideal for sensitive stomachs though, because after five minutes my children were unfortunately already lying sick at the bottom of the boat. We chose a private excursion, which meant we had all the time in the world and were completely alone, with no other boats around us.

The boys also went quad biking and discovered the surroundings of Santa Teresa in a more adventurous way.

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The drive from Santa Teresa to Monteverde was beautiful: from tropical jungle and ocean views to green mountains and cloud forests. The drive took around six to seven hours with several stops, including one with Marcelo, a ceramic artist who creates replicas of original vases and sculptures inspired by the Chorotega culture.

After breakfast, we headed to the Monteverde Cloud Forest, a protected nature reserve where we hiked for about two to two and a half hours. There is a convenient shuttle system to the parking area, and the entrance fee is very reasonable considering how well the parks are managed. The walking trails are clearly marked and beautifully maintained. Monteverde sits at around 1,400 metres altitude, and the hikes go up to around 1,700 metres.

We stayed there for two nights and ended the trip with a literal highlight: dinner at the treetop restaurant San Lucas. Dinner with a view and the perfect final memory of the journey.

The next morning, we drove to Alajuela before flying home. Pura Vida. We will definitely return, next time to discover the south of the country.

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