The drive from Salta airport to Cafayate via Ruta 68 was already stunning. The next day we crossed from Salta to Tucumán, following the musical legacy of Mercedes Sosa. We visited the Quilmes ruins, whose name inspired a beer that became the most consumed in Argentina. After lunch in Amaicha del Valle, we discovered a hidden gem: the Museo de la Pachamama, a private museum by artist Héctor Cruz.

Before continuing, we checked road conditions carefully. Ruta 40 was dry and accessible, so we chose to return to Salta via gravel roads (“ripio”). For adventure lovers, this two-day route is unforgettable: shifting rock formations, colourful mountains, cactus landscapes, and a mountain pass at 3,200 m via Cachi. It was the children’s first real experience with altitude, and the first time we needed warm sweaters. We bought llama sausages from local farmers and spotted vicuñas and guanacos along the way.

We hiked the spectacular Cerro de las Señoritas, a surreal moonlike landscape of cactus and canyons. But our teenage son suddenly went missing, no water, no signal. Luckily, a shepherdess found him and brought him back by motorbike. Hiking in the Andes is serious terrain; guides are essential.

In the afternoon, we explored Tilcara by bike with a local guide. We celebrated Christmas Eve with Argentinians, and on Christmas Day we drove up to 4,300 m to explore the UNESCO-listed Quebrada de Humahuaca and Hornocal, the 14-coloured mountain range. On the way back, the kids enjoyed the open-back jeep ride—an unforgettable experience.

Food tip: El Nuevo Progreso in Tilcara is outstanding. For relaxation after the trip, Finca Valentina is a beautiful and peaceful hacienda.

We then flew back to Mendoza, Argentina’s wine region. A folkloric evening at Ahijuna is highly recommended, more authentic than many touristy tango shows in Buenos Aires.

After a fairytale wedding in a vineyard, we continued to Aconcagua. The roads are good (no 4x4 needed), with stops in Uspallata and a night in a dome overlooking volcanic landscapes. Around Aconcagua, plenty of hiking options remain.

Northern Argentina stands proudly as a destination in its own right, on par with Patagonia or Iguazú Falls. We were genuinely surprised by its diversity and beauty.

If you want to discover the Andes while keeping the freedom of driving yourself and avoiding extreme altitudes, this region is ideal. It also combines perfectly with Iguazú or Patagonia (October to April).