Between sea and mountains
Contrasting Montenegro

Reading time: 4 min

Between sea and mountains: contrasting Montenegro

When I mentioned at home that our next trip would be to Montenegro, the teenagers’ enthusiasm was lukewarm at best. And honestly, I could understand why. This Balkan country in southeastern Europe doesn’t immediately conjure up vivid images like Italy or Spain do. But I knew Montenegro had far more to offer than its low profile suggests: rugged mountains, mirror-like lakes, dramatic canyons, and a stunning Adriatic coastline. Hiking or swimming, slow enjoyment or a shot of adrenaline, everything here is, quite literally and figuratively, close at hand. Perfect for a road trip with different paces, ages, and tastes.

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That compact nature is one of Montenegro’s greatest strengths. Over short distances, sea turns into mountains and lively places give way to silence. We started our journey in Podgorica, where you instantly feel you’ve arrived in a different corner of Europe. A small, slightly old-fashioned airport, no-nonsense taxi drivers, and an atmosphere still untouched by mass tourism. Montenegrins are known for being exceptionally tall, and after a few meals featuring impressively large portions of meat, I began to suspect there might be a connection.

From Podgorica, we headed toward the coast, with our first highlight being a stop at the Pavlova Strana viewpoint. This small detour is generously rewarded with a panorama reminiscent of a lush, green version of Horseshoe Bend in the USA. We continued past Bar, took in the postcard-perfect island of Sveti Stefan, and then made our way to the Bay of Kotor.

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We traveled during the summer holidays, which brings me to an important note. The Adriatic coast is beautiful, but in July and August it is also very busy. If you’re looking purely for a beach holiday, Montenegro wouldn’t be my first recommendation in high season. Outside that period, however, it seems absolutely delightful. One place you should always visit, regardless of season, is the Bay of Kotor. The play of light and water, the countless shades of blue, and the steep mountains rising almost vertically from the sea make this an extraordinarily beautiful location. We explored the bay by speedboat, which is highly recommended because it allows you to see much more and reach further. The Blue Cave, tiny islands, and hidden corners follow one another in quick succession.

My tip for Kotor itself is to stay just outside the city, in one of the villages along the inner bay. It’s quieter, more pleasant, and ideal for a quick swim in between outings. Visit the walled old town later in the day, once the cruise ships have departed and the narrow streets can breathe again. Wandering through Kotor in the evening light and dining on one of its charming squares was especially enjoyable. The bay is stunning from the water, but at least equally beautiful from above. If you’d rather skip the winding climb along the Serpentine Road, take the cable car up to Lovćen National Park for a completely different perspective on the bay. This is absolutely worth it.

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Where Montenegro truly stood out for me was inland. The mountain drives are nothing short of spectacular and never the same twice. In Durmitor National Park, Crno Jezero, the Black Lake, reflects the surrounding forests and mountain peaks like a perfect mirror. You can enjoy an easy walk around the lake or relax by the water, but we opted for a more challenging hike toward the ice cave Ledina Pećina. The views along the way made every step more than worthwhile. We stayed outside Žabljak, away from the main road, surrounded by silence and beneath a star-filled sky that you’ve long forgotten exists in Belgium.

After hiking, it was time, according to the teenagers, for some real action. Rafting on the Tara River and ziplining across the canyon, one of the deepest in Europe. Despite a bit of cold-water anxiety, and that is meant quite literally, I have to admit the experience was fantastic. Seeing the gorge from the river below or from high above offers two completely different perspectives. Crossing the Tara Bridge, we continued on to Biogradska Gora, a gem of primeval forests and glacial lakes. A practical bonus is that the cable cars that transport skiers in winter conveniently take hikers up to higher-altitude trails in summer. This region is full of eco lodges where cowbells serve as your morning alarm and icy mountain streams double as refrigerators.

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For the final days, we traded the mountains for water and tranquility at Lake Skadar. Near Virpazar, we stayed at a small-scale glamping site. Outdoor showers, evenings around the campfire, kayaking straight from the jetty, and enjoying local wine at sunset made it far more pleasant and comfortable than I had expected. During a boat trip across the lake, drifting between water lilies and green hills, I felt transported to Asia for a moment. Honestly, I would have happily swapped our final beach days for more time here.

On a practical note, I strongly recommend renting a car with a solid all-inclusive insurance policy. The roads are narrow, winding, and sometimes busy. Allow plenty of time for getting around, as traffic jams and photo stops are simply part of the experience. Weather in the mountains can change quickly, so a warm layer and a rain jacket are far from unnecessary. Be sure to download a hiking app as well, since trail signage often leaves room for interpretation. And for those traveling with teenagers, a local eSIM makes life much easier, keeping everyone connected without any surprises on the bill.

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On a practical note, I strongly recommend renting a car with a solid all-inclusive insurance policy. The roads are narrow, winding, and sometimes busy. Allow plenty of time for getting around, as traffic jams and photo stops are simply part of the experience. Weather in the mountains can change quickly, so a warm layer and a rain jacket are far from unnecessary. Be sure to download a hiking app as well, since trail signage often leaves room for interpretation. And for those traveling with teenagers, a local eSIM makes life much easier, keeping everyone connected without any surprises on the bill.

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